The advantage of returning to Rome for a second time is that we had ticked off all the main sights during our first, foot-weary visit a few years ago. This time we could escape the milling throng and get a feel for Rome beyond the tourist madness. Staying on the other side of the Tiber from most of the action – in the Trastevere District – meant it was quieter, greener and a lot more relaxing. And who wouldn’t be charmed by a b&b called Buonanotte Garibaldi? Hidden behind concealing gates in a wall, its rooms were arranged around a cool, quiet courtyard garden that was patrolled by the Noa the resident dog.
Star Street Performer was undoubtedly the Star Jasmine (Trachelospermum jasminoides) which was in full and fragrant flower, covering buildings and wreathing doorways. While it is a plant that grows well in England, it never puts on quite the same extravagant display that we saw in Rome. It was a truly heady experience.
Rome’s Botanical Garden is a five minute walk from Buonanotte Garibaldi and is a perfect place to wander on a hot afternoon. Like most botanical gardens, it is more a place of plant science than horticultural excellence, but it is beautifully positioned on a hillside with wonderful views over Rome. It has many mature trees, an impressive grove of giant bamboos, magnificent palms and an elegant (but empty) greenhouse that I rather coveted.View from the Rome Botanic Garden
Ninfa is known as the most romantic garden in the world and it has long been top of the list of the gardens I have wanted to visit. With very limited opening hours, especially if you want to catch it when the roses are in bloom, it takes a bit of planning, but finally I have been and I was as
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