One group of plants you can use to create a blooming bridge between spring and summer are azaleas (Rhododendron spp. and cvs., Zones 3–9). As one of the most popular shrubs in the southeastern United States, they can last for generations with proper establishment and care. On the flip side, poor cultural practices can lead gardeners to disappointment. There are many types: native, nonnative, hybrids, reblooming, evergreen, and deciduous. No matter which type you choose, many of the basics for growing great azaleas stay relatively consistent.
Learning how to properly install your new azalea will set you up for success. Before you plant, make sure your shrub is well watered. You don’t want to plant an azalea stressed from having a dry root system. This is a good tip for any shrub you are planting.
Azaleas have a fine, fibrous root system and are shallowly rooted. Not planting too deeply is imperative. I asked azalea expert Robert “Buddy” Lee about establishing azaleas in the garden. Buddy has more than 40 years of experience in nursery management, plant breeding, propagation, and new plant development, and his work includes developing the reblooming Encore group of hybrid azaleas. He told me, “When planting, it’s best to position the azalea root ball in the hole at least 2 to 3 inches above the grade of the bed. Keeping the plant positioned correctly, backfill the hole with the available soil and secure it snugly into position. Cover the top portion of the roots by mounding the soil upward and over the roots. Make sure that you do not place more than a couple of inches of soil on the top portion of the root system. Then lightly mulch the ground around the plant with no more than 2 to 3 inches of mulch.”
Mulching is an
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