Meet a Devon gardener pioneering natural methods for sustainable food production | House & Garden

Josh with his dog Twinkle in the Edible Forest at Birch Farm

Josh Sparkes has one of the most inquiring – and retentive – minds of anyone I have met. He seeks out information, soaks it up and not only energetically puts into practice what he has learned, but also communicates his knowledge eloquently. In the space of just over 10 years, he has travelled widely to learn about new methods of growing food sustainably. He is putting this knowledge to good use at Birch Farm in Devon. Owned by Michael and Xochi Birch, co-founders of social networking site Bebo, this sustainably run farm will supply the couple’s recently acquired pub and hotel in the village of Woolfardisworthy (also known as Woolsery). Overseen by executive chef Ian Webber, The Farmers Arms is already earning a reputation for its menu of imaginative dishes made from farm-grown or locally foraged produce, while Wulfheard Manor hotel is due to open in 2025. 

‘Ian’s ethos is that the food should be a celebration of Devon, so he wanted a farming style that matched his cooking,’ says Josh. Ian and project manager Emily Harmon contacted Josh two years ago, asking him to create a market garden that would support the restaurants. Since then, he has transformed 15 acres into an experimental plot that is inspired largely by the principles of Japanese natural farming, with elements taken from other systems such as permaculture, agroforestry and regenerative agriculture: ‘I like to throw different ideas together, but the main principle is to promote natural ecosystems and biodiversity by using the resources that are already there on your land.’ 

Josh came to horticulture in his late twenties, having served in Afghanistan with the Royal Air Force until 2012. His experiences