‘WHAT GOES WITH WHAT?’ gardeners often ask, hungry for perfect perennial pairings, or the fodder of harmonious annual containers. Cooks putting together a menu are really asking what goes with what, too. In her latest reference-and-cookbook “Vegetable Literacy,” Deborah Madison asks—and answers—the question at multiple levels, including the intriguing taxonomic one, as in: Who’s a botanical cousin to whom (and how can that inform our cooking)? Get Madison’s recipe for one of my favorite pastas—with cauliflower and red pepper flakes—and maybe win one of two extra copies of this thoughtful work, just out this week, that I bought to share. Each chapter of this newest book by Madison, author of “Vegetarian Cooking for Everyone,” is named for one of a dozen plant families—the carrot family, for sample, or Umbelliferae, with ingredients from cilantro to cumin, celery to fennel, parsley and parsnips and more. We gardeners probably know the Brassicaceae (the cabbage family) and the Solanaceae (tomatoes and such) and of course the legumes or Fabaceae (peas and beans). But we don’t really talk about what cousins of sunflowers we eat (the family Asteraceae or Compositae), for instance. (Jerusalem artichokes, lettuce, artichokes, tarragon, and chicories are examples.)
Learn to cook, and how to connect the botanical dots in the process. Why? “Because the garden is the other side of the kitchen,” Madison says. It’s an informative exercise—and can help with “aha’s” about substitutions, such as related spinach for chard or beet greens. It’s fun, too—and who needed another cookbook organized from appetizers through dessert?
Food crop by food crop within each family, including a wide range of herbs, Madison reveals tidbits of history and
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